Day 1
Our direct flight from Seattle arrived in the early afternoon. After picking up our car rental from Enterprise, we checked in to our Airbnb in the Kalaoa neighborhood, and found a food truck for late lunch. The small marketplace next door was mostly closed, but we still managed to get delicious banana bread along with fresh papayas and mini “apple” bananas. We tested our snorkeling gear at Kahalu’u Beach Park, which had plenty of fish, including the famous humuhumunukunukuapua’a. Dinner at the nearby Magics Beach Grill, decent food, and perfect sunset views. Stocked up on breakfast items at Safeway on the way home.
Day 2
The forecast for the morning was clear, so we decided to go for Mauna Kea. Getting up at 5am wasn’t hard with the 3h jet lag, and it was getting light around then anyway. The Mauna Kea visitor center was still closed when we passed, but a ranger flagged us down to confirm we’d spent half an hour acclimatizing (the summit is at almost 14,000ft), that our car had AWD, and that we knew how to use the low gears. Most of the road up was paved, with just one rough but wide and well-graded unpaved section. The landscape, views, and collection of famous telescopes were all impressive. On the way down, the ranger stopped us again, this time to check the temperature on our brakes… We continued to Hilo for the Lyman Museum and a quick lunch at Puka Puka Kitchen. Having spotted Kīlauea erupting from Mauna Kea, we looped back via Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, with a coffee stop at Hilo Coffee Mill on the way. By the time we arrived, Kīlauea was no longer erupting, so we hiked the Kīlauea Iki crater loop trail with a short side trip to the Nāhuku Lava Tube. Parking lots were all full, but with most people only stopping for a quick picture, turnover was fast. A small detour took us to Punaluʻu Beach with its black sand and sea turtles, and a very scenic drive ended with pizza once it got dark.
Day 3
Time for a break from driving, so we stayed nearby. Morning snorkeling with Hawaii Oceanic in Kealakekua Bay (and a few lesser-known spots along the way) brought lots of fish, urchins, and coral, plus both bottlenose and spinner dolphins, and even a juvenile sea turtle. Once the sea sickness wore off, we had a sandwich with a view, then headed on to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. Small but beautiful, plus we spotted a monk seal. Back in Kailua-Kona too late to visit Hulihe‘e Palace, but not too late for ice cream. Banana sorbet is my new favorite! We picked up more fresh fruit at Kona Farmers Market and a very refreshing drink at Island Time Boba Cafe. Dinner was leftovers.
Day 4
Another loop across the island, this time circling back along the north coast. First stop was the Pu’u O’o Trail along Saddle Road. Lava fields, patches of lush forest, and lots of birds (including a nēnē goose). Lunch was in Hilo again, this time at Coffee Notes, where (true to the name) a local band was performing. Spent more time than planned at Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden, which had a staggering number of orchids in bloom. Quick stop for shaved ice at Fudge’n Coffee Cafe in Honokaa, and a detour for the view from the Waipio Valley Lookout, which reminded me of the Napali coast on Kauai. At Kiholo Bay Park, a short dirt-road drive and a mile-or-so beach hike took us to the bay. Spotted three green sea turtles along the way. Dinner was Lau Lau and Kalua Pork at L&L Hawaiian Barbecue. Truck-stop vibes, but decent (and very reasonably-priced) food.
Day 5
Out of breakfast food, so we picked up malasada donuts at Paradise Bakery Hawaii. With a spare hour before heading to the airport, we spent it at Honokohau Beach. Checking in at the airport was very easy-going, no lines, and the terminal is open-air.
Notes
- Driving: Every (paved) road we drove was in great condition. Tourists appear to like Mustangs and Jeeps, neither of which seem like practical choices. AWD is a good idea, even if you don’t plan to go offroad, as roads can be steep, and it can get wet.
- Food: Food standards aren’t quite as high as the prices are, but if you like tacos, acai bowls or poke, you’re all set. Salads and fruit were very good everywhere, too.
- Weather: Clouds typically started accumulating inland by noon, but the coastal strip (both on the Kona and on the Hilo side) often remained in the sun all day.